That is the question! In the timeless universe of watches, the distinction between genders is more of a social tradition and a marketing strategy than a genuine technical requirement. If we back up in time just a little, we will then discover that watches, in their original essence, were not confined to gender categories. They were created for everyone, as a symbol of unity amidst the diversity of their wearers. However, over the decades, a wind of change swept through the watchmaking industry, giving rise to creations that, while being precision masterpieces, began to cater specifically to gentlemen or ladies.
This evolution is not so much the result of technical innovation as it is a response to societal expectations. Men's watches were attributed with robust characteristics, larger dials, reflecting a certain idea of masculinity, while models intended for women featured thinner more elegant lines, sometimes embellished with refined details like mother-of-pearl dials enhanced by diamond-set bezels and all too often equipped with a quartz movement.
But behind these distinctions, what emerged is a story of style, design, and personal expression. The industry, in its journey through time, has woven a rich variety of models that reflect not only the evolution of fashion but also that of social norms. Each watch, beyond its appearance, tells a story, that of an era, a society, and even a revolution in how we conceive gender and personality. Thus, by exploring the notion of gender in the world of watches, we open a fascinating chapter on how traditions and innovations intersect, challenge each other, and ultimately, shape the contours of a future where personal style prevails over conventions.
Do watches have a gender: is that a myth or genuine reality?
In the captivating world of watchmaking, each watch tells a story, embodying a blend of tradition, innovation, and personal expression. There is a range of creations that celebrate this diversity, with iconic pieces that captivate both men and women, each reflecting its essence through size, design, and attention to detail. However, a real change can be observed in the brands' strategies as well as in the expansion of their collections. In the years leading up to COVID-19, most watch brands had decided to focus their communication and novelties on their so-called feminine ranges, or at least those intended for women who had been neglected for too long in favor of very masculine references with XXL diameters equipped with various complications and often too heavy for feminine wrists. Post-COVID, a wave of caution was felt, brands refocused on their heritage, on their iconic models, leaving creativity and the female segment aside. Then, the 2023/2024 trend took place, imposing its all-gold models, with a return to small diameters, diamond-set bezels, the use of precious or ornamental stones whether in dials, indexes, or bracelets, disregarding the “gender” of watches. Market reality has demonstrated that the wrists of men and women are now unified. In an era of a world in transition, what was once a reality is now a myth; nevertheless, some models from certain brands continue to exist to satisfy both the male and female genders without ever conflating them.
Masculine watches combining elegance and robustness
The Omega Seamaster is a true icon of masculinity and adventure that stands out for its bold design and exceptional performance underwater. With its generously sized 42mm dial and stainless steel bracelet, this watch is a symbol of resilience and masculine elegance, worn on the wrists of many explorers and even the world's most famous spy, James Bond.
The Longines HydroConquest blends sporty aesthetics with technical precision, and pays tribute to the spirit of men who defy the depths of the sea. Its 41mm dial is protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and its stainless steel bracelet speaks of power and determination, the unwavering qualities of the masculine adventurous soul.
Feminine watches where delicacy lies in the details
Tissot Lovely Collection is a perfect embodiment of femininity subtly charming with its discreet elegance and timeless design. Its small 19.5mm dial, slim case, and delicate bracelet make it a wrist jewel, while diamond-set variants add a touch of luxury and refinement, reflecting the grace and beauty of its wearer.
Breguet Reine de Naples was inspired by the first wristwatch commissioned by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples and sister of Napoleon, this iconic model created by Abraham-Louis Breguet is a masterpiece of feminine elegance. With its distinctive oval shape, mother-of-pearl dial, and curves set with precious stones, the Reine de Naples is more than a watch: it is a horological jewel, a tribute to femininity and sophistication.
Each piece, whether designed to appeal to a male or female audience, is the result of exceptional craftsmanship and an unceasing quest for perfection. In this universe, each watch is an invitation to discover a world where elegance and technical prowess meet, creating pieces that are not only timekeeping instruments but true works of art to be worn.
Design and watch complications through the gender prism
In the fascinating world of watchmaking, watch functionalities often transcend traditional gender notions. Let's delve into the realm of watch complications, where technique meets aesthetics. Among these wonders, some stand out for their particular appeal according to gender, not through prescription but through how they resonate with their wearers.
Traditionally, the moon phase complication, with its poetic display of the lunar cycle on the dial, is often perceived as having a special resonance with women's watches. This function, which combines beauty and mystery, is found in timepieces such as the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune. For ladies, this watch embodies elegance with its delicate and enchanting display of the moon, surrounded by sparkling stars, on a dial that captures the very essence of the starry night.
Watch complications and their selective appeals Beyond the moon phase, other watch complications, such as perpetual calendars or chronographs, are not exclusively masculine or feminine but often find a particular echo among a knowledgeable or collector audience thanks to their design and functionality. The Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 for men, for example, is a precision masterpiece, where technical innovation meets classic style, highlighting an appreciation for sophisticated mechanisms.
The impact of design on the gender of watches.
The size of the dial and the overall design play a crucial role in the appeal of a watch, often reflecting aesthetic preferences associated with gender. For men, watches like the Omega Speedmaster Professional, with its 42mm dial and ultra-sporty appearance, symbolize adventure and resilience. This piece, historically famous for being on the Moon, embodies both the accomplishments and challenges overcome by man in shaping our history, at any given moment.
On the feminine side, models like the Longines DolceVita shine with timeless elegance. With its more delicate 23.30 x 37.00 mm rectangular dial, often adorned with diamonds, it is the epitome of refinement, offering comfortable wear and a distinctive style that complements the delicacy of the female wrist. Revived less than a year ago, this collection perfectly embodies femininity, also recalling that elegance is an attitude above everything else. According to Longines, but especially according to Jennifer Lawrence, who perfectly embodies the brand's image.
Eleonor Picciotto
