Far more than just a science, watchmaking is an art; a tradition that continues and reinvents itself through the centuries. From the invention of the first timekeepers to the complexity of modern watches, the watchmaker's craft lies at the crossroads between history and innovation blurring the lines between the tangible and the intangible.
The history and evolution of the watchmaker's craft over time
The watchmaker's profession, with its roots deep in the sands of time, dates back to an era when measuring time was a quest that was both mystical and practical. The first watchmakers were craftsmen, innovators who shaped one of humanity's oldest pursuits: quantifying time. Over the decades, this profession has transformed, adopting new technologies, from the complex mechanisms of tower clocks to the meticulously decorated pocket watches of the Victorian era, to the advent of quartz watches and, and more recently, smartwatches. Each era has brought its innovations, but the heart of the profession which requires precision, patience, and passion—has remained steadfast.
The Importance of watchmaking in the modern world
In a world that no longer seems to turn as smoothly and especially one that turns faster and faster, the art of watchmaking seems to have kept its pivotal role, reminding us of the importance of every second. Far from being obsolete, modern watchmaking managed to merge ancient craftsmanship with technological advances, creating pieces that are both works of art and masterpieces of engineering. Today's watchmakers are not just guardians of time; they are innovators, artists, breathing mechanical souls who dedicate their life into the mechanisms that measure our existence despite the predominant use of our iPhones and other electronic devices that tell the time. The watchmaker's work continues to fascinate both technology enthusiasts and art aficionados, proving that, in our digital age, watchmaking remains a source of inspiration and wonder. Post-COVID, where interest in traditional watchmaking has only grown exponentially, the status of the watchmaker enjoys almost the same stature as that of a celebrity. In a world where tradition and modernity meet, watchmaking is a living testimony of our ability to create, innovate, and give meaning to the passing time. It reminds us that each tick-tock is an art, every clock a world, and every watchmaker, an artist of time.
What is a watchmaker?
At the core of every ticking watch lies the soul of a watchmaker, a craftsman whose expertise and devotion to time transcend the simple measurement of hours, minutes, and seconds. The watchmaker is a guardian of time, a master of precision, and an artist who breathes life and history into each mechanism they touch. Becoming a watchmaker is not just about learning a trade; it's about embracing a vocation that demands a rare combination of skills and qualities. A steady hand and an eye for detail are essential, as even the tiniest watch parts require extreme attention and precision. But beyond the technique, it is passion that truly drives the watchmaker. A passion for the history behind each watch, for the innovation that pushes the limits of what is possible, and for the beauty that can be created from metals and movements. Watchmaking also requires infinite patience. Each watch is a complex puzzle, and sometimes the solution only appears after hours of concentration and meticulous work. Additionally, a watchmaker must have an insatiable curiosity, a desire to continually learn, as the field is constantly evolving with new technologies and methods.
The different specializations in watchmaking
The world of watchmaking is vast and diversified, offering a multitude of specialized paths to explore. Some watchmakers choose to focus on repair and restoration, bringing life back to old watches and clocks, often laden with history and memories. Others prefer to delve into the world of haute horlogerie, working with luxury brands to create watches that are true masterpieces of art and mechanics. There are also watchmakers who specialize in design and innovation, seeking to push the boundaries of what is technically achievable with a watch, often in research and development offices. From the creation of novel complications to the integration of avant-garde materials, these watchmakers are at the forefront of the industry. Each specialization offers its own challenges and rewards, but all share a common goal: the pursuit of perfection in the art of measuring time. Whether it's bringing a piece of history back to life or creating the next generation of watches, watchmakers are united by their devotion to this exquisite and timeless profession.
The journey to becoming a watchmaker
Embracing a career as a watchmaker is a fascinating adventure, filled with learning and discovery. This journey, both technical and artistic, requires dedication and passion. It all starts with academic training followed by practical apprenticeship. Recognized watchmaking schools provide a solid foundation, mixing watchmaking theory and meticulous practice. These institutions don't just teach the mechanisms; they encourage you to dive hands-first into the beating heart of watches, where every gear matters. It is in these workshops that the watchmakers of tomorrow are born, armed with the knowledge and precision necessary for their future profession.
Renowned watchmaking schools around the world, such as the Technical School of the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland or WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program), are beacons of knowledge, guiding students through the history, theory, and practice of watchmaking. But training doesn't stop at the school's doors. The importance of internships and field experience is crucial. They provide an immersion into the real world of watchmaking, where theory and practice meet and intertwine.
Acquiring additional skills and becoming a pioneer in the field: but which one?
In addition to fundamental skills, today's watchmaker must constantly expand their horizon. Restoring old watches, for example, is a field that requires not only a deep understanding of historical mechanisms but also a respect and appreciation for the history and art behind each piece. This specialization demands patience and delicacy, where every watch tells a story, every mechanism hides a secret from the past. Concurrently, understanding new technologies is indispensable to move forward. Watchmaking has not remained static in time; it evolves with it. Innovations such as quartz movements, connected watches, and advanced materials are reshaping the landscape of modern watchmaking. The watchmaker must therefore be both a guardian of traditions and a pioneer, ready to explore new frontiers of their art.
Who are these modern watchmakers?
We think of Ludwig Oeschlin, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, or Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who are recognized for their significant contributions to the innovation and art of contemporary watchmaking. Each of these master watchmakers has brought revolutionary developments, pushing the limits of horological mechanics and enriching the industry with unique creations. For example, Ludwig Oeschlin is famous for his ability to simplify complex horological complications, making complication watches more accessible and reliable. As a former curator of the International Watchmaking Museum and founder of Oechslin Uhren, he has created innovative watches with minimalist approaches in terms of mechanical parts, like the perpetual calendar watch with the fewest possible parts. Carole Forestier-Kasapi is recognized for her exceptional work in developing complex movements, notably at Cartier, where she led the movement creation department. She played a key role in the design of several horological innovations and complications, contributing to strengthening Cartier's reputation as a leading watchmaking brand. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the founder of Agenhor (recently sold to H.Moser), is a master watchmaker renowned for his innovative approach to developing complication modules for watches. He is particularly appreciated for his ability to create unique and creative mechanisms, working with prestigious brands to develop award-winning watches.
Among other names of watchmakers, there is of course François-Paul Journe recognized for his watches that combine technicality, innovation, and traditional aesthetics. His creations are often characterized by a pursuit of perfection and meticulous attention to detail, including his sovereign chronometer and deadbeat second. Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel, co-founders of Greubel Forsey, are famous for their innovations in the field of tourbillons and other complications, aimed at improving the accuracy of mechanical watches. As for Kari Voutilainen, this Finnish watchmaker is recognized for his exceptional craftsmanship and watches made entirely by hand, whose waiting list has now reached 8 years. His creations are famous for their refined aesthetics and precise mechanics. Philippe Dufour is a name that resonates more and more, especially during auctions: this Swiss master watchmaker is famous for his high-complication watches, in particular his minute repeaters and his dual timezone Simplicity watches, which are highly esteemed for their exceptional finish and classic design.
They have not reinvented the wheel, they have not defied time in the literal sense, and yet, these modern watchmakers have made their mark in the history of watchmaking just as a Louis-Abraham Breguet or a George Daniels did several centuries before them. It took them flair, time, perseverance, and extraordinary precision to achieve what others could not.
It is in this duality between past and future, tradition and innovation, that the watchmaker finds their way. The journey to becoming a watchmaker is strewn with challenges, but each obstacle overcome is a victory, each skill acquired is a step further towards mastering this ancient art. In the end, becoming a watchmaker means embracing a passion for time, its mysteries, and its mechanisms, with the firm intention of leaving one's mark in the incessant flow of seconds.-
Eleonor Picciotto
